Roumier elected to perform the elevage of his entire 2002 Musigny production in one new 350 liter barrel. Fulfilling every winemaker’s nightmare, the barrel’s toasting was flawed by the cooperage, according to Roumier, marring the wine with excessively toasty aromas and flavors. Christophe quickly racked it into a used 228-liter traditional barrel and an older 114 liter one but the damage was done. When tasted, it exhibited a tight, rough, light-bodied character (perhaps from the quick racking) as well as the charred barrel scents and flavors. I

A wine of wonderful depth, the elegant 2001 Musigny, exhibits a nose of blackberries, fresh herbs, and blueberries. This classy, pure, lively effort is light to medium-bodied, has impressive clarity of fruit, and boasts a long, cherry-filled finish. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2012. I

The ruby-colored 1997 Musigny has an enthralling nose of fresh herbs, flowers, and black cherries. On the palate, it is expressive. Tobacco, cedar, blackberries, and currants are found in this refined, lace-like, medium-bodied offering. It is a beautifully elegant, detail-oriented, and complex wine. Drink it over the next 8-10 years. I